Hood introduces this as - to paraphrase - a taste of the American South. I've never been there. But if this is truly representative, I must say I'm not opposed to visiting.

The first thing I noticed was BBQ sauce - or rather, the relative lack thereof. These days, when I see BBQ sauce on the spec sheet, the feeling I get is generally one of concern. In most cases BBQ sauce completely takes over all other flavors. Not the case here. This one was subtle and just enough was added to help with the balance, no more. The pancetta was perfect, in taste and in texture. The apple slaw added the much needed freshness.

I also liked this burger because it made this new review really easy. I simply left the old lede and the first two paragraphs intact. No notes. And they seem to have fixed the quality control issues (or I just got luckier with the RNG?) so I bumped the score by +½ point and removed that part of the criticism. Makes me happy when I can do things like that.